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Destinations

Seoul - Field Notes

Welcome to Seoul, where every bite tells a story and every meal is an adventure waiting to unfold. As you navigate the concrete jungle of South Korea's capital with our Seoul travel guide, prepare yourself for a gastronomic journey unlike any other. Here’s what you can expect from exploring the vibrant food scene, top spots to eat, stay, and play, along with insider tips on navigating the city and savoring the best street food.

Market in Uijeongbu, South Korea

Average costs in this area

Transportation - Navigating South Korea's vibrant cities like Seoul is a breeze thanks to its impeccable subway systems—clean, reliable, and the envy of many. Taxis, easily summoned via user-friendly apps, offer convenience, albeit with occasional language hurdles. But fear not! Getting around won't break the bank. For local adventures, expect to pay around 1300 KRW (about $1.00 USD) per subway ride, or grab a T-Money card for about 55,000 KRW. Taxis, ranging from $5 to $10 USD per trip, are a swift option, while longer rides, on the bullet train from Seoul to Busan stretch, stay under $40 USD. So whether you're navigating Seoul's bustling streets or island-hopping in Jeju, travel in South Korea remains refreshingly affordable and convenient.

Accommodations - Don't chain yourself to one hotel for your entire stay. Roam, explore, and see Seoul—and South Korea at large—reveal its layers to you. The Agoda App is your secret weapon, unlocking hotels that are often 75% cheaper than you'd expect. And please, don’t make the rookie mistake of holing up in Hongdae or Itaewon for your whole trip. Sure, they’re buzzing on weekends, but during the week, they can feel like ghost towns.

Food - Let’s dive deep into South Korea’s culinary world. Picture bustling street markets alive with the irresistible scent of sizzling delicacies. Here, skilled vendors dish out steaming bowls of tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) and serve warm gyeran-ppang (egg-filled bread) that's as comforting as it is delicious. As dusk settles, neon signs flicker to life, beckoning hungry souls into cozy eateries tucked away in narrow alleys. These humble spots promise culinary delights, where locals gather for hearty jjigae (stews) and lively conversations. Amidst echoing laughter and the clink of metal chopsticks on ceramic bowls, South Korea’s food scene unfolds not just as a meal, but as a cultural—a celebration of flavors, memories, and the communal joy found around every shared table.

Suggested daily budget – 55-74 EUR / 60-80 USD In South Korea, affordability endures even amid the post-pandemic travel cost surge. For budget-minded travelers, budget around $60 to $80 daily, covering accommodation, food, transportation, and basic activities. Mid-range travelers can expect to spend that much daily, enjoying a bit more comfort and the freedom to explore. Whether navigating Seoul’s vibrant streets or indulging in mouthwatering Korean BBQ, South Korea offers diverse experiences for every budget, making it a captivating destination for all.)

Tips for first visit

1. Prepare Your Schedule – No matter how long you’re going to be in Korea, don’t stay in the same hotel the whole time. Create a list of what you want to see and move around the all of Seoul.

2. Get KRail Subway Card – Navigating Korea’s transport system is a breeze with a T-Money card. Grab one at any GS25 or CU convenience store. These rechargeable cards work for taxis, buses, and the subway, making them essential for getting around. In Korea, you’ll mostly travel by subway. When your card gets low, just top it up at any local convenience store.

3. Stay at Different Hotels – Never stay in the same hotel for more than two days. With thousands of hotels available around $35 USD a night, you can always find a new spot to explore. In Korea, these are often called “love hotels,” but don’t let the name mislead you. They offer comfortable accommodations perfect for travelers. Download the Agoda app or visit www.agoda.com to find your next stay.

Do’s and don’ts

First, let's talk about the basics in this Seoul travel guide. Learning a few Korean phrases like “hello” (안녕하세요, annyeonghaseyo), “thank you” (감사합니다, gamsahamnida), and “sorry” (죄송합니다, joesonghamnida) isn't just polite—it’s essential. Koreans appreciate the effort, and it can open doors to deeper connections. And when it comes to giving or receiving anything—money, a business card, even a drink—always use both hands. This small gesture packs a punch in the respect department. And remember, when entering a Korean home or a traditional lodging, do as they do: shoes off, slippers on.

Elders are the backbone of Korean society. Bow when greeting them, let them go first in lines, and wait for them to start eating before you dig in. Public manners matter too. Stand on the right side of escalators and be mindful of where you toss your trash—Korea’s recycling game is strong.

Now, let’s get into what not to do. Pointing with a finger? Forget it. Use your whole hand if you must direct someone’s attention. Keep your voice down in public spaces; Koreans value quietude. Modesty is key in dressing—save the bare shoulders and cleavage for somewhere else. Tipping? Leave it. It’s not part of the culture and might even offend. And when you write someone’s name, stick to blue or black ink—red is a no-go, linked with death. Avoid public criticism; help people save face. Lastly, if an elder offers you a drink, take it. Refusing can be seen as a slight.

Navigating South Korea’s cultural landscape isn’t just about following rules—it’s about understanding the unspoken language of respect that binds this dynamic country. Dive in with an open heart and a curious mind, and South Korea will reveal its rich, complex layers to you in the most rewarding ways.

What to Do

Now, that's a question I found myself asking every weekend. I pour through a vloggers Seoul travel guide and push back from the computer. It would take you 30 years to see and do everything here, but let’s be real—none of us have 30 years. So let’s cut to the chase. You’ve got 5-10 days in Seoul, and you want to make the most of it. I’m going to lay out what I love to do when I have just a short stint in this chaotic, beautiful city. This list isn’t exhaustive, and honestly, no one can give you the perfect list. It all comes down to what you’re looking for. Seoul is a monster of a city—huge, sprawling, overwhelming. You’ve got to break it down into neighborhoods and tackle it one bite at a time.

Itaewon

Start in Itaewon. It’s the heart of the foreigner scene here and the epicenter of fun. This place is a playground,   with countless bars and clubs. From  Homo Hill to Hooker Hill, it’s got something for everyone. Get off at Itaewon Station, exit 2. As soon as you step out, you’ll spot a small alleyway on your left. Grab some soju from the GS25 right there on your right before you dive into the alley. It’s the meeting point, where everyone gathers and starts the night. Once you’re done, stroll down the short walk and turn left. The streets are lined with bars and eateries. When you’re ready to venture to the other side of the street, head on over. But brace yourself; this side’s a bit seedier, with prostitution and drugs so it’s a bit more rougher. Homo Hill is a great starting point. Food stalls line the street, serving up kabobs so this is where you get your late night food fix. Remember, this isn’t real Korea. This is a melting pot of diverse cultures, a bubble of chaos that promises one hell of a night.

Dongmyo Flea Market

Dongmyo Flea Market is one of Seoul’s best-kept secrets. It’s a junker’s paradise. Head to Dongmyo Station on the dark blue line, take exit 3, and walk another 20 meters before turning right. You can’t miss it. This market is a treasure trove of used everything—from peacoats to old cord phones. I’ve snagged $300 USD peacoats here for less than $3 USD. It’s not about buying; it’s about the experience. Stepping back 20 years in Korea, surrounded by thousands of Koreans haggling over $3 clothes, is an intense, almost surreal experience. This place is a labyrinth of junk, an endless maze weaving through alleys and main streets. Spend two hours here, and you’ll likely end up staying much longer.

Dongdaemun

Dongdaemun is a vibrant district, pulsing with energy and history. It’s famous for its markets and the Heunginjimun Gate, also known as Dongdaemun. One of the Eight Gates of Seoul’s Fortress Wall, it’s a symbol of the city’s historical might.

The Seoul City Wall, built in 1396 during the Joseon Dynasty, was designed to protect Seoul from invasions. The wall stretches over 2 kilometers, offering a unique trail that lets you see parts of Seoul that are otherwise hidden. This is what I like to do on a Sunday morning to get rid of my hangover. For me, the trail ends at the top, where a bar/coffee shop called Nobag awaits. Now, back to Dongdaemun’s essence. This area is upscale, but I’m here for the markets.

Start with Gwangjang Market. One of the oldest and largest traditional markets in Seoul, it’s a food lover’s paradise. Located in Jongno District, its history dates back to 1905. This place is a feast for the senses. Locals and tourists alike flock here for a taste of everything—from bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) to soothing kalguksu (Korean knife-cut noodle soup). Gwangjang Market gained fame after being featured on shows like Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations,” Gordon Ramsay, Mark Wiens’ “Migrationology,” Phil Rosenthal’s “Somebody Feed Phil,” and, of course, my own “Traveling American.” Netflix’s “Street Food Asia” even did an episode on the Hand Cut Noodle Lady. I have to brag—Cho Yonsoon’s Gohyang is a good friend of mine, and I knew her before the show even aired.

McGill and Christianson eating mung bean pancakes where Street Food Asia was filmed
Shrimp Breakfast Biscuits in Gwangjang Market
Walking up Seoul Wall for exercise. I didn't take this photo.

Where to Eat

Asking where to eat in Korea is like questioning the essence of existence. You can look at every Seoul travel guide and they will have different opinions. The food scene here is unbelievably big, as rich and diverse as the people who inhabit it. But don’t worry; I’ve unearthed a few treasures that’ll make your taste buds dance and your soul sing. The ones I have listed are just some randoms that came to mind. By no means is this list my only ones.

Itaewon

1010 Africa United: This place is a gateway to West Africa without ever needing a plane ticket. Nigerian classics like Egusi, Okro, and Vegetable soups are crafted with such authenticity, you’d think you were in Lagos. Don’t miss their Jollof Rice and Fufu—they’re simply divine. Tucked upstairs with a full bar, it’s a small slice of West Africa in Seoul.

Ankara Picnic: For a quick and satisfying fix, this Turkish spot nails it. Their Doner Kebab is legendary. Whether you’re grabbing a quick bite or sitting down, the Mixed Doner Plate—clocking in at about $10 USD—is a no-brainer.

Goyang

Donmu Bapsang: A North Korean gem that’s as rare as it is remarkable. The owner, a defector with a storied past as a top chef in North Korea, serves up dishes like Beef Seasoned with Vinegar and Cucumbers, Pyeongyang Naengmyeon, and Glutinous Rice Sundae. It’s like eating history.

Jongno

Honamjip: If grilled fish is your thing, this place is where your dreams come true. Nestled in a labyrinth of fish joints, Honamjip stands out for its top-notch service and the kind of authentic grilled fish that makes you forget about all the other places. It’s rowdy, communal, and perfect for those who love a bit of chaos with their meal.

Namdo Pungmul Dongtaetang: Hidden away in a maze of small shops and stalls, this spot serves up fish soup that’s pure comfort. Pair it with Soju and Cass Beer, and you’ve got yourself a meal worth savoring. I like to sit outside, blend into the crowd, and revel in the local vibe. Dongmyo feels like home here.

Gwangjang Market: The street food capital of South Korea. This market is a labyrinth of flavors with hand-cut noodles, mung bean pancakes, yukhoe, and dumplings at every turn. It’s the kind of place where legends like Anthony Bourdain and Gordon Ramsay have made their mark, and aspiring food vloggers come to make their dreams a reality.

Dongjak

Noryangjin Fish Market: Picture an enormous aquarium where you not only gaze but feast on the exhibits. Pick your seafood and have it prepared on the third floor. The market is vast and teeming with options. Engage in a bidding war for the freshest catch, and enjoy it as sashimi or in a hearty stew. There’s a “table fee” and an obligatory order of soup or stew. For an extra kick, dine on the roof and soak in the unparalleled view.

Pyeongyang naengmyeon
Grilled fish at Honamjip in Grilled Fish Alley
Table set to try North Korean food
Korean Bulgogi in Seoul

Where to Stay

Where you lay your head each night sets the stage for your entire Korean adventure. Too many travelers fall into the trap of booking one hotel in one neighborhood for the whole trip, usually in hotspots like Hongdae or Itaewon. Sure, these areas crackle with energy on weekends, but they're dead during the week. Trust me, that's a recipe for disaster. Spend a night or two in these spots—Friday in one, Saturday in another—but don’t commit to staying there all week. Even if you stick to Seoul, keep moving. The excuse of ``I didn’t know where else to stay`` doesn’t cut it. Agoda.com is your lifeline. Download the app, book online, and avoid the language barrier and potential overcharges that come with walk-up reservations.

Love Hotels: Your Secret Weapon

Love hotels are the unsung heroes of budget travel in Korea. They’re everywhere and, despite the name, they’re not just for romantic escapades. Seoul travel guides aren’t going to point these out to you. In a culture where multi-generational living is common, privacy can be scarce. Couples often escape to these hotels for a night or a few hours. Don’t let the name fool you; these places are fascinating, and they’re often 75% cheaper than regular hotels. I’ve stayed in love hotels with stages and musical instruments, two-story suites with pool tables and karaoke, and even rooms decked out in Egyptian themes. They’re clean, beautiful, and dirt cheap.

Uijeongbu

Heading towards the border? Uijeongbu is your spot. My top pick is Hotel Bus and Hotel iluwa which are right next to each other. Both are steps away from a GS 25 convenience store and Subway exit 1. Convenient and comfortable. If I were on a trip to see the Demilitrized Zone (DMZ) this is where I would set up camp for the night. If you are looking for someone that knows this place inside and out, you should reach out to my best friend Mara. She has a car and knows every back alley restaurant from Uijeongbu to North Korea. If your schedule matches with hers and you are willing to pay for her time. She would love to take you to the North Korean Border.

Dongdaemun

In downtown Seoul, “Hotel Skypark Kingstown Dongdaemun” is the place to be. This four-star gem offers luxury without the luxury price tag. I usually pay $80-$100 USD per night, and splitting the cost with a friend makes it even more budget-friendly. There are two of them so make sure your driver knows that it is the Kingstown one in Dongdaemun.

Jamsil

South of the Han River, Jamsil is an oasis of entertainment and culinary delights. It’s vibrant yet less touristy. Hotel Pharos is my go-to here. It’s clean, classy, and boasts a huge bathtub—perfect for unwinding after a day of adventure. Walk down the street and have the Vietnamese coffee and sandwich for breakfast. My friend Taylor Bonilla, an American expat teacher who knows the nightlife here like the back of his hand, is a great resource. Born in California, Taylor’s lived all over the world and can guide you to the best local spots.

Incheon

Incheon is a playground for all ages. Wolmido Amusement Park, with its waterfront setting, comes alive at night with musical performances and family gatherings. I met a couple there who, despite years of marriage, seemed like newlyweds. Their love story still warms my heart. For a place to stay, I recommend the “Wolmido Dubai Tourist Hotel.” It’s directly across from the amusement park and a stone’s throw from street food and live music.

Make sure you’re googling these hotels and using Agoda app to find these cheap hotels. By constantly moving and exploring different areas, you’ll experience the true breadth of what Korea has to offer. So pack your bags, hit the road, and embrace the journey.

Cell Phone Coverage

If you’re anything like me, the thought of landing in a new country without cell phone coverage sends a shiver down your spine. It’s one of those travel details that can drive you mad. Over the years, through a fair share of trial and error, I’ve found a few solid solutions. Some worked in one country, some didn’t, but here in South Korea, I’ve cracked the code.

You’ve got options: SK Telecom SIM cards, LG U+ SIM cards, eSIMs, and my personal go-to, the KT SIM card. I’ve spent more than four years living off and on in South Korea, and KT has never let me down. They’re easy to pick up right at the airport, no fuss, no hassle. eSIMs? Haven’t tried them here, but I’d wager they’d do just fine.

The beauty of South Korea is the omnipresent internet. The subways, coffee shops, bars—Wi-Fi is everywhere. You could easily get by just hopping from one free network to the next. But let’s get real; you’re going to want to stay connected all the time. So, grab yourself a local SIM card and download KakaoTalk.

KakaoTalk is the lifeline of communication in Korea. It’s the most popular free messaging app, and with it, you can send messages, photos, videos, voice notes, and even share your location, all using your data connection. Free voice and video calls? Of course. But here’s the catch: set up KakaoTalk only after you’ve got your Korean phone number. You’ll need it to receive those essential verification codes.

So there you have it. A little slice of travel wisdom from someone who’s been there, done that, and got the SIM card to prove it. Stay connected, stay sane, and enjoy the journey.

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