Itaewon
Start in Itaewon. It’s the heart of the foreigner scene here and the epicenter of fun. This place is a playground, with countless bars and clubs. From Homo Hill to Hooker Hill, it’s got something for everyone. Get off at Itaewon Station, exit 2. As soon as you step out, you’ll spot a small alleyway on your left. Grab some soju from the GS25 right there on your right before you dive into the alley. It’s the meeting point, where everyone gathers and starts the night. Once you’re done, stroll down the short walk and turn left. The streets are lined with bars and eateries. When you’re ready to venture to the other side of the street, head on over. But brace yourself; this side’s a bit seedier, with prostitution and drugs so it’s a bit more rougher. Homo Hill is a great starting point. Food stalls line the street, serving up kabobs so this is where you get your late night food fix. Remember, this isn’t real Korea. This is a melting pot of diverse cultures, a bubble of chaos that promises one hell of a night.
Dongmyo Flea Market
Dongmyo Flea Market is one of Seoul’s best-kept secrets. It’s a junker’s paradise. Head to Dongmyo Station on the dark blue line, take exit 3, and walk another 20 meters before turning right. You can’t miss it. This market is a treasure trove of used everything—from peacoats to old cord phones. I’ve snagged $300 USD peacoats here for less than $3 USD. It’s not about buying; it’s about the experience. Stepping back 20 years in Korea, surrounded by thousands of Koreans haggling over $3 clothes, is an intense, almost surreal experience. This place is a labyrinth of junk, an endless maze weaving through alleys and main streets. Spend two hours here, and you’ll likely end up staying much longer.
Dongdaemun
Dongdaemun is a vibrant district, pulsing with energy and history. It’s famous for its markets and the Heunginjimun Gate, also known as Dongdaemun. One of the Eight Gates of Seoul’s Fortress Wall, it’s a symbol of the city’s historical might.
The Seoul City Wall, built in 1396 during the Joseon Dynasty, was designed to protect Seoul from invasions. The wall stretches over 2 kilometers, offering a unique trail that lets you see parts of Seoul that are otherwise hidden. This is what I like to do on a Sunday morning to get rid of my hangover. For me, the trail ends at the top, where a bar/coffee shop called Nobag awaits. Now, back to Dongdaemun’s essence. This area is upscale, but I’m here for the markets.
Start with Gwangjang Market. One of the oldest and largest traditional markets in Seoul, it’s a food lover’s paradise. Located in Jongno District, its history dates back to 1905. This place is a feast for the senses. Locals and tourists alike flock here for a taste of everything—from bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) to soothing kalguksu (Korean knife-cut noodle soup). Gwangjang Market gained fame after being featured on shows like Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations,” Gordon Ramsay, Mark Wiens’ “Migrationology,” Phil Rosenthal’s “Somebody Feed Phil,” and, of course, my own “Traveling American.” Netflix’s “Street Food Asia” even did an episode on the Hand Cut Noodle Lady. I have to brag—Cho Yonsoon’s Gohyang is a good friend of mine, and I knew her before the show even aired.