Living Off the Grid in Nicaragua: An Ometepe Adventure
Living Off the Grid in Nicaragua
An Ometepe Adventure
When I started planning my trip for off-grid living in Ometepe, Nicaragua, my mission was clear: to immerse myself in a lifestyle far removed from the modern world. Ometepe, an island gem in Lake Nicaragua, promised exactly that—a chance to experience the essence of simple, authentic life. No fancy hotels or Michelin-starred restaurants here. If I was coming to Nicaragua, I wanted to live like a local, and this trip was set to deliver just that. I pride myself on meticulous planning, spending countless hours ensuring every detail is nailed down, every reservation made, every potential hiccup anticipated. But I know all too well that my plans are written on toilet paper and I can wipe my butt with it at any moment. Yet, with me, the question “What are we going to do next?” never comes up because I always have a plan A, B, and C.
The Search for an Authentic Stay
First step: Search for an Airbnb… Hotels? Forget it. I scoured an Airbnb called Volcano Concepcion on Ometepe Island, a gem in Lake Nicaragua. Ometepe, with its rich history and natural beauty, is formed by two volcanoes—Concepción and Maderas. It stretches 31 kilometers long and 5 to 10 kilometers wide. Its name, from the Nahuatl words “ome” (two) and “tepetl” (mountain), means “two mountains.” The island is alive with vibrant travelers from all over the world. Then I found it—the perfect Airbnb. Unlike anything I’d seen before, this place had very limited power, outdoor cooking, and the food looked incredible. The living conditions? Basic, to say the least. You will not get wet when it rains, but this was the essence of living off the land.
The Journey Begins
Now, let me tell you about my vehicle. A small white hatchback with a standard transmission, perfect for our ice chest and luggage. I loaded it onto the ferry at the port in San Jorge for the 50-minute ride to Moyogalpa. From there, it’s an 18-minute drive to JC’s and his family’s home. The roads on Ometepe? Not what you’d call roads in the First World. It’s all rocks, tossing you around the whole way. After zigzagging through tiny neighborhoods, we arrived in the dark, pouring rain. JC met us where his “driveway” and the main road connect, guiding us down and helping unload our bags. Right away, I could tell this man had a great soul.
A Warm Welcome to ometepe
Days before our arrival, JC asked if we’d like his wife to cook dinner for us. For a few extra pesos, she’d prepare something special. Look, I’m a foodie. I travel the world eating, drinking, and making new friends. There was no way I was passing up a local meal with strangers. Even though we’d just eaten, we sat down and watched her warm everything up. She stoked the fires with pride, and rightfully so—she was good. Everything was farm-to-table, organic, and free-range. After a few stories, we went to bed.
Morning in Paradise
The next morning, we woke to the sound of thousands of parakeets leaving the jungle for their daily routine. Time to try out the toilet. Having a conversation with my father-in-law while on the toilet, separated by a sheet, was a new experience. The semi-enclosed shower outside our room offered a view of the jungle and its creatures. The cold water was ice cold, so you don’t stay in longer than necessary. Up in the main area, breakfast was ready. The eggs couldn’t be any fresher—I met the chicken that provided them. Daylight revealed our surroundings, and it was nothing like what I saw last night. Banana trees everywhere, fruit on every tree. These simple-living people had found the key to a fantastic life. They farmed themselves, made their own bread, juices—everything. If the world ended tomorrow, this family wouldn’t even notice, much less care.
WHY DOES A COLLEGE PROFESSOR with a PhD CHOOSE TO LIVE THIS LIFE?
Embracing the Simple Life
This Airbnb was unlike any place I’d ever seen. Hardly any power. The basics, but not much more. You wouldn’t get wet when it rained, but this was living off the land. The tin roof, held up by tree limbs that have been cut and turned into as beams, had multiple rooms for rent, each with two beds. Each room had an outdoor shower with walls offering a view of the jungle. The water? Collected from rain, stored as needed, and always cold. Each room had an American-style toilet, which flushed. The sink hung on the wall in the sleeping area, with a mirror dangling from a string tied to the roof. I knew it would be a hot night, but JC brought in a fan for each person. I quickly passed out on top of the sheets, the fan blowing in my face. At some point, I must have gotten cold because when I woke up, I was under the sheets.
Discovering the Farm on Ometepe
Ron and I asked JC for a tour of the property, and he was happy to oblige. Let me tell you about JC. He’s 61 years old, from the United States but has lived in Nicaragua for more than 32 years. A college professor with degrees from Penn State, George Mason, Georgetown, and Harvard. This man is smart, really smart. But his wife was born on this property, and this is where she wants to live with their son. JC bought an acre from her father, who farmed it as his father did before him. I met the father—a man of few words, bent over chopping down trees in the banana field with a homemade slingshot in his back pocket. “What’s that for?” Ron asked. To keep monkeys and birds from eating the fruit, he explained. “Ever killed one?” I asked. He said no, explaining that aiming directly at them ensures he doesn’t hurt one. This fit old man is funny and will probably outlive us all.
Learning from the Land
JC talked about every tree and fruit on the property. This man is a botanist, maybe not by degree but by passion. He explained the lunar cycle’s importance in harvesting and planting, showing how he propagated sugarcane cuttings. He grows the best mangoes I’ve ever had. Am I on a farm or an orchard? The science here is mind-blowing. This is my kind of thing—cooking organically from the region it was grown. A chef’s dream. Imagine fusing Egyptian recipes with Nicaraguan ingredients.
Meeting the Healer from Ometepe
JC’s sister-in-law, Yariela, also lives on the property. A young, non-English speaking 36-year-old woman with an interesting story. She trained in Japan for four years in Oriental Medicine, specializing in massages, cupping, acupuncture, and heat. Why would a doctor with such advanced skills live in the jungle? People from all over the world come for her help. She offered me a treatment, and I trusted her. The next day, I got the massage. She came out looking professional, makeup perfect. Where was the Nica woman I’d been spending my days with? This woman was gorgeous! She noticed my neck trouble and focused on that. After 30 minutes of acupuncture and heat treatments, my motion range improved.
Embracing the Experience
Staying here isn’t for everyone. You’ll sweat the entire time in Nicaragua. The lack of amenities makes this place great but not for the faint of heart. If you love backpacking, nature, food, and culture, come here. This place, set back in time with manual labor, grabbed my traveling soul and hasn’t let go. I think of my new family almost every day. I text JC often, sharing pictures from my travels or the price of avocados in the US. So many things remind me of him and his family. Ron says he thinks about Nicaragua daily and yearns to return to the jungle. I can’t explain it, but it’s one of the few places, other than South Korea, that has satisfied my wandering soul.
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