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Living Off the Grid in Nicaragua

An Ometepe Adventure

The kitchen area at our AirBnB on Ometepe

When I started planning my trip for off-grid living in Ometepe, Nicaragua, my mission was clear: to immerse myself in a lifestyle far removed from the modern world. Ometepe, an island gem in Lake Nicaragua, promised exactly that—a chance to experience the essence of simple, authentic life. No fancy hotels or Michelin-starred restaurants here. If I was coming to Nicaragua, I wanted to live like a local, and this trip was set to deliver just that. I pride myself on meticulous planning, spending countless hours ensuring every detail is nailed down, every reservation made, every potential hiccup anticipated. But I know all too well that my plans are written on toilet paper and I can wipe my butt with it at any moment. Yet, with me, the question “What are we going to do next?” never comes up because I always have a plan A, B, and C.

The Search for an Authentic Stay

First step: Search for an Airbnb… Hotels? Forget it. I scoured an Airbnb called Volcano Concepcion on Ometepe Island, a gem in Lake Nicaragua. Ometepe, with its rich history and natural beauty, is formed by two volcanoes—Concepción and Maderas. It stretches 31 kilometers long and 5 to 10 kilometers wide. Its name, from the Nahuatl words “ome” (two) and “tepetl” (mountain), means “two mountains.” The island is alive with vibrant travelers from all over the world. Then I found it—the perfect Airbnb. Unlike anything I’d seen before, this place had very limited power, outdoor cooking, and the food looked incredible. The living conditions? Basic, to say the least. You will not get wet when it rains, but this was the essence of living off the land.

 

Volcano Concepion on Ometepe

The Journey Begins

Now, let me tell you about my vehicle. A small white hatchback with a standard transmission, perfect for our ice chest and luggage. I loaded it onto the ferry at the port in San Jorge for the 50-minute ride to Moyogalpa. From there, it’s an 18-minute drive to JC’s and his family’s home. The roads on Ometepe? Not what you’d call roads in the First World. It’s all rocks, tossing you around the whole way. After zigzagging through tiny neighborhoods, we arrived in the dark, pouring rain. JC met us where his “driveway” and the main road connect, guiding us down and helping unload our bags. Right away, I could tell this man had a great soul.

 

Cows being herded through Ometepe

A Warm Welcome to ometepe

Days before our arrival, JC asked if we’d like his wife to cook dinner for us. For a few extra pesos, she’d prepare something special. Look, I’m a foodie. I travel the world eating, drinking, and making new friends. There was no way I was passing up a local meal with strangers. Even though we’d just eaten, we sat down and watched her warm everything up. She stoked the fires with pride, and rightfully so—she was good. Everything was farm-to-table, organic, and free-range. After a few stories, we went to bed.

 

Morning in Paradise

The next morning, we woke to the sound of thousands of parakeets leaving the jungle for their daily routine. Time to try out the toilet. Having a conversation with my father-in-law while on the toilet, separated by a sheet, was a new experience. The semi-enclosed shower outside our room offered a view of the jungle and its creatures. The cold water was ice cold, so you don’t stay in longer than necessary. Up in the main area, breakfast was ready. The eggs couldn’t be any fresher—I met the chicken that provided them. Daylight revealed our surroundings, and it was nothing like what I saw last night. Banana trees everywhere, fruit on every tree. These simple-living people had found the key to a fantastic life. They farmed themselves, made their own bread, juices—everything. If the world ended tomorrow, this family wouldn’t even notice, much less care.

 

 

WHY DOES A COLLEGE PROFESSOR with a PhD CHOOSE TO LIVE THIS LIFE?

 

Embracing the Simple Life

This Airbnb was unlike any place I’d ever seen. Hardly any power. The basics, but not much more. You wouldn’t get wet when it rained, but this was living off the land. The tin roof, held up by tree limbs that have been cut and turned into as beams, had multiple rooms for rent, each with two beds. Each room had an outdoor shower with walls offering a view of the jungle. The water? Collected from rain, stored as needed, and always cold. Each room had an American-style toilet, which flushed. The sink hung on the wall in the sleeping area, with a mirror dangling from a string tied to the roof. I knew it would be a hot night, but JC brought in a fan for each person. I quickly passed out on top of the sheets, the fan blowing in my face. At some point, I must have gotten cold because when I woke up, I was under the sheets.

 

Discovering the Farm on Ometepe

Ron and I asked JC for a tour of the property, and he was happy to oblige. Let me tell you about JC. He’s 61 years old, from the United States but has lived in Nicaragua for more than 32 years. A college professor with degrees from Penn State, George Mason, Georgetown, and Harvard. This man is smart, really smart. But his wife was born on this property, and this is where she wants to live with their son. JC bought an acre from her father, who farmed it as his father did before him. I met the father—a man of few words, bent over chopping down trees in the banana field with a homemade slingshot in his back pocket. “What’s that for?” Ron asked. To keep monkeys and birds from eating the fruit, he explained. “Ever killed one?” I asked. He said no, explaining that aiming directly at them ensures he doesn’t hurt one. This fit old man is funny and will probably outlive us all.

 

Learning from the Land

JC talked about every tree and fruit on the property. This man is a botanist, maybe not by degree but by passion. He explained the lunar cycle’s importance in harvesting and planting, showing how he propagated sugarcane cuttings. He grows the best mangoes I’ve ever had. Am I on a farm or an orchard? The science here is mind-blowing. This is my kind of thing—cooking organically from the region it was grown. A chef’s dream. Imagine fusing Egyptian recipes with Nicaraguan ingredients.

 

JC Explains how banana tress have to be chopped down for future growth

Meeting the Healer from Ometepe

JC’s sister-in-law, Yariela, also lives on the property. A young, non-English speaking 36-year-old woman with an interesting story. She trained in Japan for four years in Oriental Medicine, specializing in massages, cupping, acupuncture, and heat. Why would a doctor with such advanced skills live in the jungle? People from all over the world come for her help. She offered me a treatment, and I trusted her. The next day, I got the massage. She came out looking professional, makeup perfect. Where was the Nica woman I’d been spending my days with? This woman was gorgeous! She noticed my neck trouble and focused on that. After 30 minutes of acupuncture and heat treatments, my motion range improved.

 

Embracing the Experience

Staying here isn’t for everyone. You’ll sweat the entire time in Nicaragua. The lack of amenities makes this place great but not for the faint of heart. If you love backpacking, nature, food, and culture, come here. This place, set back in time with manual labor, grabbed my traveling soul and hasn’t let go. I think of my new family almost every day. I text JC often, sharing pictures from my travels or the price of avocados in the US. So many things remind me of him and his family. Ron says he thinks about Nicaragua daily and yearns to return to the jungle. I can’t explain it, but it’s one of the few places, other than South Korea, that has satisfied my wandering soul.

If you enjoy learning about my trips and would like to come or follow along, sign up for my newsletter at TravelingAmerican.

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Volcano Sledding on Cerro Negro https://travelingamerican.org/volcano-sledding-on-cerro-negro/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=volcano-sledding-on-cerro-negro https://travelingamerican.org/volcano-sledding-on-cerro-negro/#respond Sat, 08 Jun 2024 10:09:44 +0000 https://wanderland.qodeinteractive.com/?p=50 Experience the thrill of volcano sledding on Cerro Negro. Get tips on safety, gear, and making the most of this unique adventure in Nicaragua.

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Volcano Sledding on Cerro Negro

Experience the Ultimate Thrill in Nicaragua's Adventure Capital

In the heart of Nicaragua, volcano sledding on Cerro Negro begins in the lively town of León. At 8:20 AM, I joined a ragtag group of 12 thrill-seekers, all eager for the day’s adventure. After meeting the team from Volcano Day—dedicated to providing unforgettable hiking and volcano experiences—we braved a safety briefing that did little to calm our nerves. Soon, we boarded a rickety school bus, eyes set on the black slopes of Cerro Negro.

Bus ride with Volcano Day sledding

Book Your Volcano Boarding Adventure

We chose the Volcano Boarding Basic package. For $25 USD, the deal includes the ride, gear, and photos. To secure your spot, pay a $10 USD down payment via CashApp, and settle the rest when you reach ViaVia Restaurant and Bar. Book through their website or contact them on WhatsApp at 505-8368-7347. Adventure is just a conversation away.

Essential Gear to bring with you Before Volcano Sledding

You must bring your own face protection, such as a scarf or mask. Without it, you can’t go volcano sledding on Cerro Negro. This protection keeps dust out of your mouth so you can breathe! I ended up buying a scarf from a street vendor. The bus ride was a blast—lively tunes played as we bounced through towns, capturing glimpses of local life. Kids playing, vendors selling goods, and stray dogs provided perfect snapshots of everyday Nicaragua.

Ron and McGill getting ready to sled down a volcano

Preparing for the Ascent

As we approached, the imposing silhouette of Cerro Negro emerged from the clouds, a dark giant rising from the earth. Its steep slopes and jagged contours loomed menacingly, daring us to challenge its formidable presence. The sight alone made me question my sanity, and a shiver of trepidation ran down my spine. Here stood a mountain that seemed to defy not just our courage but perhaps our very survival. Despite the thrill and excitement, a nagging thought persisted: this volcanic behemoth might just be more than we bargained for.

The bus approaching the volcano

Arrival and Gear Check

When the bus arrived at the base of the mountain, we got off at a small guard shack where park rangers counted us. A quick glance at the maps showed the challenging terrain we were about to tackle. We then hopped back on the bus for a short ride to the volcano’s base. There, we met the tour guides and received our “sleds”—yellow-painted boards with rope handles. Looking at this flimsy gear, I wondered how it would keep me safe. The guides assured us that no one had died. Yet.

The board you slide down the volcano on.

Capturing the Beauty of Cerro Negro

The climb to the summit of Cerro Negro takes about an hour. The trail starts on one side and winds upward around the volcano. Each step revealed breathtaking photo opportunities and showcased the stark beauty of a landscape scarred by past eruptions. As we climbed higher, the view became more surreal. We saw other volcanoes, their shapes etched against the sky, and barren, blackened earth where lava had once flowed.

view of the old lava fields and the rain

Cerro Negro’s History and Anticipating the sled ride

Halfway up, we paused to catch our breath and listen to our guides explain the volcano’s history. They discussed its eruptions, its power, and the spirit of those who dared to sled down its steep slopes. This moment allowed us to reflect on Nicaragua’s raw beauty and the thrilling adventure ahead. With the summit in sight, we eagerly anticipated the unforgettable ride down the ashen slopes of Cerro Negro.

A group of individuals stands at the summit of Cerro Negro a volcanic landscape, with one person explaining the history of Cerro Negro interacting with the tour group The terrain is rocky and barren with various shades of brown and green, indicative of volcanic activity. In the background, another peak can be seen under a cloudy sky, adding to the dramatic scenery. The individuals are dressed in casual hiking attire suitable for such an environment, suggesting they are tourists or hikers exploring the area.

A Breathtaking View and Final Briefing

As we neared the summit, the anticipation was almost tangible. At the top, we were greeted by a stunning vista—an expansive volcanic landscape dotted with craters and scarred by past eruptions. Our guides gave one final briefing, detailing the descent and making sure everyone felt ready. The view was both breathtaking and daunting, a reminder of the raw power of nature.

Final Briefing before we head down the volcano

Embracing Speed and Thrill on Cerro Negro

Strapped into our gear, we lined up, each of us clutching our yellow sleds with a mix of eagerness and nerves. The moment of truth arrived as we took our positions. Launching ourselves down the slopes, the experience was a wild cocktail of speed, dust, and sheer exhilaration. The sleds rattled and roared as we raced down, volcanic ash swirling around us in dramatic clouds. Each twist and turn was a thrilling reminder of the power and unpredictability of the mountain.

In line to sled down the volcano in Leon, Nicaragua

Cheers After the Volcano Descent

Reaching the base, we were met with cheers and high-fives from the Volcano Day team. Cold drinks awaited, and the sense of accomplishment was palpable. Volcano sledding Cerro Negro had been as exhilarating as it was unforgettable—a true testament to the adventure that Volcano Day promises. The adrenaline and thrill of the descent left us buzzing. We loaded our equipment back on the bus to head back to where it all started. Ron and I agreed that some beers and shots were in order back at ViaVia, a perfect ending to an epic day in Nicaragua’s volcanic playground.

If you’re interested in something like this, reach out to me and see when I’m going again. Let’s Travel Together.

Ron and McGill are seated at the bar at ViaVia León in Nicaragua, engaging in a victory toast for sleding doing a Volcano with shot glasses. In front of them on the table is an open box, a clear empty beer mugs, and another object that resembles a lime or lemon wedge. The setting suggests a casual social gathering, at a bar called ViaVia León, indicated by the presence of drinkware and the relaxed posture of the individuals.

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