The allure of Hawaii isn’t just in its sun-kissed beaches and volcanic landscapes; it’s in the trails that claw their way up, offering more than just a view—it’s a challenge, a rite of passage. My own pilgrimage led me to the infamous Koko Head Trail Hike. I didn’t bother to check the difficulty—my focus was on cramming every minute of my days with adventure. An old Army buddy, Neal Lang, and his girlfriend, Jenn, offered up their place for us to stay during our trip. Neal, a 1st Sergeant with one of the units on a nearby Army base, and his girlfriend Jen, both adrenaline junkies and outdoor enthusiasts, were the perfect hosts. They provided me with a list of their favorite hikes; I tackled four grueling hikes in six days. But let me zero in on the beast: Koko Head.

A Challenging Hike

They say Koko Head Trail Hike is supposably a 45-minute stroll, maybe if you’re an Olympic athlete. I was about to find out just how much of a fib that is. My friend Patrick Allen, a fellow soldier stationed on the island, had a good laugh when I told him my plan. “Oh, I have to see this. I’m coming with you,” he said. He knows me all too well.

I might not be the picture of peak physical fitness, but after two decades in the Army, I can endure. We parked at the near by baseball field parking lot, surrounded by a parade of stunning physiques. Of course, I felt like the reigning king of ugly. With my bag of what I thought was ample hydration, we set out for the Koko Head Trail Hike.

Navigating the Terrain

The trail starts innocuously enough with asphalt that turns to rock and then to the old WWII railway tracks, now relics of a bygone era. These tracks, used to haul equipment up the hill, still offer some semblance of footing. People passed us like it was a stroll in the park, giving me ample opportunities to catch my breath. But this trail doesn’t mess around—it quickly turns brutal. My thighs protested like they were on strike.

The real heart-stopper was a section where the ground had eroded beneath the tracks, leaving a nerve-wracking 10-foot drop. You either balance across or take a detour that feels like you’re tiptoeing around a cliff. Allen, seasoned and fearless, leaped across like it was nothing. Me? I watched people crawl across like they were auditioning for a circus act. Somehow, I pushed through, taking breaks and praying for the end.

Reaching the Summit and Reflecting

At the summit, Neal’s female commander reportedly does the whole hike in under 25 minutes. Neal, ever the beast, even vomited at the top. But let me tell you, the wooden platform up there offers a view that makes every ounce of suffering worth it. You look out over Honolulu and the ocean, and for a moment, you’re overwhelmed with gratitude. I snapped photos of my family, and the Koko Head Trail Hike felt like a victory.

WWII History: The Observation Point

Allen suggested we check out the WWII observation point nearby. More stunning views awaited, though this spot is not for the faint-hearted, perched precariously over a sheer cliff. The cooler breeze was a welcome relief, and I took a moment with my oldest son to soak in the scenery. I imagined soldiers stationed here during WWII, scanning the skies for enemy aircraft. The old engines that once hauled carts up the trail stood as solemn reminders of their sacrifice.

Descending the Trail

The descent was a different beast. Far quicker but still daunting, with people coming up who seemed impervious to the terrain. I joked, “Save yourself, it’s not worth it!” as I clung to tree branches, making my way down. By the time we hit the bottom, I craved nothing more than a beer. Fortunately, the cooler from our diving trip was stocked. Allen and I celebrated with cold beers, the perfect end to the Koko Head Trail Hike.

Colombia: Shedding Old Shadows

Is Colombia safe to visit? It’s a question many travelers ask, especially with the country’s turbulent history. That is the number one yester when I decided to go. Traveling to Colombia is often met with raised eyebrows and cautionary tales, especially if you’re going alone. Many people still wonder, “Is Colombia really that dangerous?” It’s a country often associated with the violent drug wars of the 1980s, when names like Pablo Escobar dominated the news and painted a bleak picture of the nation. But that narrative is over 40 years old. While the shadow of that era lingers, Colombia has evolved. Its people, vibrant and joyful, continue to live with an infectious energy, refusing to let the past define their future. Traveling to Colombia is often met with raised eyebrows and cautionary tales, especially if you’re going alone. Many people still wonder, “Is Colombia really that dangerous?” It’s a country often associated with the violent drug wars of the 1980s, when names like Pablo Escobar dominated the news and painted a bleak picture of the nation. But that narrative is over 40 years old. While the shadow of that era lingers, Colombia has evolved. Its people, vibrant and joyful, continue to live with an infectious energy, refusing to let the past define their future.Traveling to Colombia is often met with raised eyebrows and cautionary tales, especially if you’re going alone. Many people still wonder, “Is Colombia really that dangerous?” It’s a country often associated with the violent drug wars of the 1980s, when names like Pablo Escobar dominated the news and painted a bleak picture of the nation. But that narrative is over 40 years old. While the shadow of that era lingers, Colombia has evolved. Its people, vibrant and joyful, continue to live with an infectious energy, refusing to let the past define their future.

Why I Fly Spirit Airlines (Don’t Judge Me)

I know what you’re thinking. “Spirit Airlines?” My friends give me endless grief over it, but here’s the thing: it’s dirt cheap. And without them, I wouldn’t be able to hop from one adventure to the next as often as I do. The seats are uncomfortable, sure, and you pay for everything—snacks, drinks, even breathing feels like an extra charge—but I’ve learned to game the system. I pack my own food, water, and let’s face it, comfort isn’t why I’m there. It’s the price. Pure and simple.

First Impressions of Bogotá

These days, many people wonder: Is Colombia safe to visit in 2024? The answer isn’t as black and white as it might seem. Landing at Bogotá International, I didn’t quite know what to expect. As I stepped off the plane onto the tarmac and boarded a bus to the main terminal, my mind was racing with all the clichés I’d heard. But El Dorado International Airport? Modern. Sleek. A far cry from the 1970s time capsule I’d imagined. The customs line crawled at a snail’s pace, but it gave me a moment to absorb my surroundings. When I finally reached the counter, the officer—looking sharp and professional—greeted me with fluent English. A relief.

My Obsessive Travel Binder

Here’s something you should know about me: I over-prepare. I travel with a binder—a damn binder—neatly organized with every possible document. My lifeline. The customs officer asked for the MIG Check, a document you must fill out online within 48 hours of departure. Timing is everything; too early or too late, and you’re out of luck. I handed over my passport, the MIG, and my plane ticket. One quick stamp later, and Colombia opened its doors to me.

Navigating Communication and SIM Cards

First order of business: get your phone working. You’ve got two options—either buy an eSIM card before you arrive or grab a local SIM at the airport. I went with the eSIM from an app called “Sally.” Within five minutes of landing, my phone was up and running. Efficient, with solid customer service. If you prefer to wait, you can buy a Claro SIM at the airport, but it’ll cost you. Just be sure you’ve got enough data; trust me, you’ll need it.

Money Matters: ATMs and Credit Cards

Getting your hands on Colombian pesos is easy—ATMs are everywhere, and safe. I’ve pulled cash out in cities across Central and South America without any issues. If you’re not into ATMs, you can hit up one of the airport exchange windows, but I prefer using a credit card at restaurants and larger spots. It keeps things simple, and I save my cash for those smaller, off-the-beaten-path purchases.

Transportation: Uber and Espionage

One thing you don’t want to do in Bogotá? Take a regular taxi. The scams are rampant. They’ll quote you one price, then charge you double or triple when you arrive. Instead, download Uber. Sure, it’s technically illegal, but drivers use it anyway. My Uber driver, “Steve,” messaged me with advice before I even got in the car. “You and I are friends. We’ve known each other for years.” It felt like I was stepping into a low-budget spy thriller. When Steve arrived, I played along. No questions asked. Google Translate became my co-pilot, bridging the gap between my nonexistent Spanish and Steve’s willingness to make small talk.

Where to Stay in Bogotá: Airbnb Over Hotels

Accommodation in Bogotá is affordable—whether you’re going for hotels or Airbnb, you’re not going to break the bank. Me? I always lean towards Airbnb. There’s something about having an entire apartment to yourself that beats a hotel room any day. For just $25 a night, I scored a two-bedroom apartment, complete with a full-time security guard. I had a base of operations in the heart of the city, perfect for recharging between long days of exploring.

A City That Shuts Off the Water

Here’s something you won’t find in the guidebooks: Bogotá shuts off the water once a week. For 24 hours, starting at 8:00 AM, the taps run dry. It’s rooted in Colombia’s Indigenous heritage, a weekly sacrifice for the sake of preserving the environment. I found it inconvenient, sure, but also humbling. In a world obsessed with excess, Bogotá forces you to pause and remember your place on the planet.

The Food: A Mix of Hits and Misses

I’ll be honest: the food in Bogotá didn’t blow me away. There are gems, sure—authentic street food, hearty local dishes—but it lacked the spice I craved. Take Ajiaco, the national dish. It’s a comforting chicken soup made with three types of potatoes, corn on the cob, and guascas, a local herb. It was good, no doubt, but I felt like it was missing that extra kick. I plan on recreating it back home with my own twist.

The Colombians’ love for cheese is undeniable—especially in their hot chocolate. And then there’s Lechona, roasted pork stuffed with rice and peas, which was a highlight. I’ve always found that the best meals come from the smallest, grittiest places, where the food is cooked with heart and soul. You’ll know it’s a winner by the locals standing outside, beer in hand.

Street Food Adventures: Arepas and Empanadas

The real fun was in the street food. Arepas, those cornmeal cakes stuffed with cheese or meat, became my daily addiction. And empanadas? Pure gold. I found a small joint near my Airbnb run by two women, one of whom spoke English. I made it my mission to work my way through their entire empanada menu.

Oddly enough, hamburgers and hotdogs are big here, especially at night. I was a little disappointed by the lack of local street food after dark. But I found solace in the hustle of a young vendor who knew his burgers. His passion was real, and he piled four inches of shredded cheese on top without hesitation. Colombians love their cheese. Is Colombia safe to visit? So far so good.

Drinking Like a Local

When it comes to drinking, I’m always game to try the local brew. In Bogotá, that meant choosing between Poker and Club Colombia. They won’t win any awards, but they’re cold, cheap, and perfect for washing down street food. For something stronger, I reached for Nectar—a clear spirit with a green label. It reminded me of Soju, with a mild taste and a subtle hint of star anise. Not bad for a drink that costs next to nothing.

If you would like to read more about my adventure, check out some of my other articles at TravelingAmerican.org/Blog